My life and lunch in alliterations

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Chicken and pie, oh my!


The first thing to, when undertaking chicken pot pie, is to buy a chicken. Or maybe it's to buy an egg...

Let's start with the chicken, butchered, giblets and wishbone removed, all done up with your prettiest trussing twine. It makes me so happy, the potential of chicken.

I was inspired to make a good pot pie, one done right, after eating a terribly mediocre version at Knee High Stocking Co. The drinks were good, the company bearded and intelligent, but the pot pie was bland with a thin brothy filling and, sin of sins... No. Bottom. Crust. I wanted to fix all their wrongs.


Preferring a salt-based rub on my chicken, I started by mincing together garlic with thyme and parsley. These are some of my favorites for the purpose, but use whatever fresh herbs you have on hand. Next I poured quite a lot of coarse kosher salt on my butcher block cutting board and continued to mince. I rubbed my chicken, previously patted dry, inside and out and stuffed a halved lemon and some halved garlic into the cavity.

I roast my chicken, one wing up and one wing down, for about 30 minutes at 400 degrees, then rotate, using a wooden spoon stuck in the cavity or some paper towels to protect my hands, so the opposite side is facing up. Then I rotate the chicken breast up and brush the skin with my favorite roasted garlic and onion jam and roast for another 25-50 minutes, depending on the size of the bird. Brush more jam on the skin once or twice, heating it up or diluting with a little balsamic vinegar for easy spreading. The result is a flavorful bird, the skin sticky with sheen, more savory than sweet. You may want to dig it right away, but it's important to let it sit for about 15 minutes before carving.

I'm most happy when I'm able to eat a roasted chicken alone because I like to pull the bird apart with my hands. It's a delicate and careful process, but I like to relish in the textile feel of it and lick the greasy mess from my fingers. The wing tips are my favorite part of the whole bird. I get extraordinary pleasure from crunching on the delicate bones, tasting and swallowing the brittle little cavities of marrow.

After I've satisfied myself (eating and masturbating are so similar), I cut the chicken meat into bite-sized pieces to be used in another recipe. Perhaps chicken salad veronique or a chicken noodle soup, but today, chicken pot pie.

Always inspired by Sally Shneider, I used her creamy root vegetable velout
é, a riff off on one of my favorite soups and a healthier alternative to cream-based sauces, as the pot pie filling. Recipe follows. 

The crust was straight from Joy of Cooking, half butter and half shortening, rolled out, 2 disks per pie, for a top and bottom crust. The bottom crust was blind baked before filling and both crusts were brushed with an egg wash for a glossy appearance and added crunch.

In a restrained amount of butter, I sauteed chopped onions and coins of carrots and parsnips, cooked just until soft (5 or 6 minutes), then added some peas, fresh lemon juice and salt and pepper. I added my veggies and cubed chicken to the velouté and baked until the crust was browned and the filling bubbled up between the slits.



With Lacy and The D, my closest friends and some of my favorite dining companions, I cracked my crust and spooned up the thick hot filling. They both loved it and were impressed to hear that the filling wasn't thickened with flour or cornstarch. I loved that in the middle of this messy ramekin of warmth and flavor, the chicken was still the star.

Roast yourself a chicken. Do it. Pot pie is just one of so many possibilities.

Creamy Root Vegetable Velouté  (makes 3 cups)

1 medium waxy potato, peeled, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise
1 small celery root, same
2 medium parsnips, same
1 medium leek, white and pale green parts thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly slices
1/4 teaspoon each kosher salt and sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, olive oil or rendered bacon fat
3/4 cup water
3 cups low sodium chicken or vegetable broth
freshly ground white pepper
1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

Braise the veggies. In a medium saucepan, combine the vegetables, salt, sugar, butter and water. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook 15 minutes or until the water has almost evaporated.

Add more liquid and simmer until tender. Add the remaining broth and return to a simmer, cooking an additional 15 minutes or until quite soft.

Taste, adjust the seasoning, and puree in a blender. This soup is so thick and smooth it feels like it's full of cream. Add parsley last. 

This soup can be served on its own, with a drizzle of truffle oil or heavy cream (and perhaps a grating of nutmeg) if desired. 

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I'm young and live in Seattle and love to eat. Please, come in, peer through my kitchen window.

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